Sonoff ZBMINI Extreme ZBMINIL2 Zigbee 3.0 no-neutral in-wall switch module 6 A

The wireless link or network the device uses. Wi-Fi connects straight to the router; Zigbee, Thread and Bluetooth Mesh work through a hub or gateway.

Whether the device needs a separate hub, gateway or coordinator to work in a smart home. If so, it is sold separately unless stated otherwise.

Whether the device supports the Matter standard, directly or through a bridge. Matter lets you add it to Apple Home, Google Home, Alexa and Home Assistant.

Whether the device keeps working over the local network or through a hub when the internet is down. Cloud features (remote access, voice assistants) need the internet.

How the device connects to Home Assistant: a built-in integration, a Zigbee coordinator, Matter or the maker’s cloud integration.

The maker’s app used to set up and control the device.

The microcontroller or radio module inside, per the maker (for example ESP32). For firmware such as WLED and ESPHome it determines available features and whether the device can be re-flashed.

How many independent loads the module switches: 1 — one light circuit or appliance, 2 — two circuits (e.g. chandelier and accent lights), 4 — a panel unit for several circuits.

Whether you can keep an ordinary wall switch or push button and wire it to the module, so the light works from both the switch and the app. Shows which switch types are supported; on dimmers a momentary button usually also adjusts brightness when held.

Whether the switch shows in the app how much the connected appliance uses: live power and accumulated kWh.

The switch wired to the module can be decoupled from the relay: the load stays powered and a press runs a scene. Needed when the circuit has smart bulbs.

Whether the wall box needs a neutral wire. Older wiring often brings only the live wire to the switch; then pick a model that works without N.

How and where it is installed: in a wall box, on a wall or ceiling, on a DIN rail, on a table or in a socket.

The device’s size in millimetres as the maker states it. Check that it fits the wall box, niche or shelf.

The device’s weight without packaging, per the maker.

Highest current through one relay with a resistive load. 10 A at 230 V is about 2,300 W of heater or incandescent lamps; for LEDs and motors the permitted load is lower.

The relay only opens or closes its contacts without putting voltage on them. This is how boilers, gates, barriers and other devices with a control input are connected.

Current the device handles across all channels at once. On multi-channel models the total is often lower than per-channel current × number of channels.

Power of incandescent lamps, heaters and other resistive loads per channel at 220–240 V. For LEDs, motors and power supplies the permitted power is lower.

Total LED lamp wattage per channel that the maker allows. Add up the watts of all lamps on that circuit and compare; for dimmers only dimmable lamps count. If the maker gives the figure in VA or as a total for all channels, the note says so.

The lowest lamp wattage on the circuit at which the device works reliably. It matters for no-neutral wiring and for dimmers with LED lamps: below it, lights may flicker or glow faintly when off.

Where the device gets its power: 230 V mains, an adapter, USB, batteries or a built-in battery.

The supply voltage (and current, if stated) as the maker gives it. It must match your mains or adapter.

The housing colour of this model. Other colours in the same series are separate products.

The air temperature range the device is rated for. The lower limit matters outdoors, on balconies and in unheated rooms.

The rated relative humidity range, non-condensing.

The warranty period the maker states. Confirm warranty terms in Moldova with the seller.